Topic: X666 + KK2 moj prvi quad (Read 109759 times) previous topic - next topic

Izgleda slatko, nemoj zamjerit ali me to ne uvjerava. Druga je priča u fast forward flightu s vjetrom
Npr. https://vimeo.com/39091397
Puno skuplje stvari poput Skyline-a imaju ogromnih problema s firmware-om.
Ne kažem da se ne isplati probat, ali ne polažem prevelike nade
Samo u realnim uvjetima možeš vidjet da li će servo twitchat itd.
Jer da je tak, ekipa bi stavljala MultiWii na gimbale, a ne kupovala PicLocove, Skyline, HoverFlyjeve itd. (da ne pričamo o skupljim varijantama, Cinestar će izbacit, ako već nije, gimbal stabilizaciju, po osi 500$)

Izgleda slatko, nemoj zamjerit ali me to ne uvjerava. Druga je priča u fast forward flightu s vjetrom
Npr. https://vimeo.com/39091397
Puno skuplje stvari poput Skyline-a imaju ogromnih problema s firmware-om.
Ne kažem da se ne isplati probat, ali ne polažem prevelike nade
Samo u realnim uvjetima možeš vidjet da li će servo twitchat itd.
Jer da je tak, ekipa bi stavljala MultiWii na gimbale, a ne kupovala PicLocove, Skyline, HoverFlyjeve itd. (da ne pričamo o skupljim varijantama, Cinestar će izbacit, ako već nije, gimbal stabilizaciju, po osi 500$)

Ako trebas pro naravno da ne gledas u 30$ rjesenje, ali za probati, poigrati se, testirati platformu ( iskoristiti KK2 sto stoji na polici )...

Ma jasno
Probat ću s MultiWiijem a možda i s KK2, pogotovo ak izađe taj firmware za gimbal. Na kraju krajeva, tko zna, open source brijači znaju bit opaki, možda ispadne da radi dobro kao neko puno skuplje rješenje

kod mene neide bas malo lijevo malo desno ide naprijed lijevo i to dosta brzo
kalibrirao sam senzore ali isti k (koristio sam leveler) jedino mozda da jos probam nagnut quad malo natrag desno pa opet probat kalibrirat 

vratio sam default postavke self levela pa cu danas jos malo testirat

fw 1.2 ima trim za self level

New FW for the KK2

CHANGES:

7: Added: ACC trim. Use it to adjust self-level attitude, no need to recalibrate sensors. Adjust in "Self-level Settings" menu.

Razmišljam malo o tim pločicama (KK2, MWC) za stabilizaciju gimbala. Prvi problem je što KK2 radi na 5V, a većinom se na gimbalima koriste digitalci 6V ili više. Druga stvar je koliko max. brzi mogu biti outputi?

Razmišljam malo o tim pločicama (KK2, MWC) za stabilizaciju gimbala. Prvi problem je što KK2 radi na 5V, a većinom se na gimbalima koriste digitalci 6V ili više. Druga stvar je koliko max. brzi mogu biti outputi?

Trebalo bi raditi, tricopteri imaju jake digitalce i rade.
Nisam siguran ali mislim da na KK2 plocica se napaja sa M1 a M2-M8 su paralelno spojeni i sluze za napajanje servaca, pa mozes spojiti jaci SBEC tamo, za linearne mislim da ne treba ni odspajati crvenu na ostalima.
Isto negdje sam procitao da za razliku od KK ima nesto brze izlaze.

The gadgets-freaks will not pitch a tent over this one, It is the same, tired old AVR-chip. (Sorry TC ) However, it runs on a 20MHz crystal, so output resolution and jitter is better than before.

Šteta što nisi u ZG da flešamo taj beta gimbal firmware
Ali valjda netko u ZG ima programator, pa ak je voljan neka se javi

jel je moguce iskoristit kk 5.5 plocicu za gimbal stoji mi na polici pa da ne skuplja prasinu probat nesto s njom napravit

jel je moguce iskoristit kk 5.5 plocicu za gimbal stoji mi na polici pa da ne skuplja prasinu probat nesto s njom napravit

Imas Mike Burton fw za to

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FBQfiodY3g

no bez Acelometra ima tendenciju drifta.

Neki kazu da mozes i s OpenAero staviti kao avion.

XXgimbal V1.0
Key Points
2-axis Gimbal with the multiple modes available selectable with 2/3 way mode-switch.
2 Rx versions available:
PWM version using just 3 PWM channels (ie separate Tx/Rx for Gimbal control)
PPM version which can allow 1 Tx/Rx to potentially control both model and gimbal
Specifically written for KK+ board with Mems add-on Board V1.1 (has gyros + accelerometer)
You will need for configuration a Serial LCD display - this must be Sparkfun compatible
eg: www.multircshop.com/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=593
or www.sparkfun.com/products/9393
You will need to modify the KK+ board (see separate document on how to do this)
Software Features
Gimbal modes available are:
• Normal : this is normal stabilised mode
• Angled : stabilised but with a fixed pitch adjustment applied ie for looking down
• PitchCtl : stabilised, but allows user to use TxPitch control to adjust Gimbal Pitch
• AdjLevel : stabilised, but allows user to alter the gimbal set level using TxRoll & Pitch controls
• Fixed : non-stabilised ie for FPV
4 Servo rates available: 50, 100, 150 & 200Hz
wide Minimum and Maximum pulse lengths per servo.
PPM version (8ch) allows user to assign Tx controls to different channels
Option to run stand-alone with no Rx attached.
note: For PPM version, PPM sequence must be: Roll, Pitch....
Installation
Flash the relevant hex file.
Hex files are in the form:
XXgimbal10a_XXX_M999_EN.hex
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
| | | |
| | | + Language (if present): EN=English
| | |
| | + Chip type M168 or M328
| |
| + Type: PPM, PWM
|
+ Version: V1.0a
First-time Setup
For PPM version, plug PPM Rx output into ELE and skip to Plug in LCD.
For PWM version, connect TxRoll & TxPitch to AIL & ELE respectively.
Connect the mode switch wire to THR. If you only have a 4ch system, then you can use TxColl instead.
Plug in LCD Display.
Plug servos in: M1=Roll servo, M2=Pitch servo.
Power-on the Tx and then power-on the board.
Wait till the main menu shows 'Gimbal Menu'
Now proceed to with setup:
For PPM users:
set the channel number for the mode switch (Setup/Tx/Mode-Switch)
If you are going to use PitchCtl or AdjLevel modes, set: (Setup/Tx/Roll/Pitch&Roll-man/)
the manual control channel numbers
the type of manual control it is: TxStick or Pot (*see note below)
Perform stick centering (nb: PPM users set all pots to centre) (Setup/Tx/Calibration)
Set mode-switch position functions (Setup/Modes/Sw-Pos0->2)
Set Servo Directions/min/max/rate etc (Setup/Servos/Servo1&2/)
set required Servo PWM rate (Setup/Servos/PWM-Rate)
If using Angled mode, set AngledAdj (Setup/Modes/Angled-Adj)
this adjusts the amount of Pitch applied when in this mode
If using Fixed mode, set FixedAdj (Setup/Modes/Fixed-Adj)
this adjusts the amount of Pitch applied when in this mode
notes:
the Manual Control type determines how user control changes are interpreted:
If TxStick type selected, stick movements are incremental i.e. when centered, there is no movement, but moving the
stick a small amount will result in a small continuous movement which will continue until the stick is released.
for Pot type, the change is absolute, ie the pot position controls the position.
You don't have to set the Type to be correct for the actual Tx control type
e.g. if you set a Tx stick as type Pot, then the Tx Stick will directly control the position.
General Points
The Gimbal software has 2 run-modes:
Config mode with Menu-navigation enabled
Gimbal mode.
Note that in both run-modes, the Roll & Pitch Gimbals will be active and changes to the configuration will take
immediate effect.
On start-up, the software will display a screen allowing the user to select the run-mode they want. If no selection is
made within 15 seconds, it will default to Gimbal mode and no configuration changes can be made.
Notes:
If no Rx is detected, it will default to Gimbal run-mode and select the mode set for mode-switch position 0.
The select screen will only be shown after stick centering has been done
On power-on, the board will perform sensor calibration for gyros (indicated by flashing LED).
The board needs to be still during this and will automatically re-try the calibration if it is not still.
For PWM users, because there the TxRoll & Pitch controls have dual use, it is best to make Configuration changes with
the Gimball in Normal mode.
The AdjLevel Gimbal mode allows the level to be changed permanently. Because of the filtering applied, there will be
some lag after the change is made for the board to change. This is noticeably different to PitchCtl which is immediate.
LED info:
Off – board is not powered or has failed Sensor check (see Diagnostics/Sensors/)
On – board is in Gimbal run-mode
Intermittent flash – board is in Config run-mode.
Fast flash – doing calibration of some type (Sensor or Tx)
Other Points

To je za prvu KK pločicu, jel' tak?

To je za prvu KK pločicu, jel' tak?

Nije KK 2.0, spominju KK+.

OpenAero2 izasla Beta 3 i pre relese 4

ima gimball za KK2

OpenAero2 Camera Stabilisation Setup Guide
Part 1 - Stabilisation only
This guide assumes that you only plan to use OpenAero2 for camera stability and not for controlling the flight of an aircraft. While it is possible to do both, there are limitations. This will be covered in a separate guide.

There will also be a separate guide explaining how to set up OpenAero2 to allow the camera mount to be controlled during stabilisation.

Note: The features described in this document are only available in Openaero2 versions greater than V1.0 Beta 3.

Step 1: Set Camstab mixer mode
There is a preset mixer stored in the software that will set up the majority of camera mixer settings for you. In the General Menu, change "Mode" to "Camera Stab.". Note that this will reset any manual mixer settings that you may have made.

Step 2: Set up Camstab independent mode
For the software to run without an external RC inputs we first need to switch on Camera Stabilisation mode. In the General Menu, change "Camera Stab." to ON.

Step 3: Set servo speed
The default servo rate is 50Hz. This is suitable for all servos, and is the only rate you should use with analog servos. If you have digital servos that can handle 300Hz update rate, you can increase the servo rate. In the General Menu, change "Servo rate:" to High. Note that using the "High" setting with analog servos may cause them to burn out.

Step 4: Set Stability and Autolevel modes for testing the gyros.
As the camera stability is to be completely autonomous, we need to switch on both stability and autolevel modes manually. Go into the "Stability control" menu and change the "Mode:" to ON. We need to set up the gyros first so to switch off the accelerometers we need to turn Autolevel OFF. Go into the "Autolevel control" menu and change the "Mode:" to OFF.

Step 5: Set up gyros
Depending on how many axis your camera mount can control, the next couple of steps will vary. We need to confirm that both the gyro and accelerometer that will be controlling this channel are in the correct polarity for your mount.

Connect ONE axis of the mount to the KK2 board according to the list below. Note that M8 is closest to the corner of the board and the right-most button.

M2 Pitch (Tilt)
M3 Yaw   (Pan)
M4 Roll (Roll)
Once connected, the servo should move to approximately the center position. Make sure you are in the Status Menu to test the servos. If it is not in the desired position we will adjust that later on.

Step 6: Test gyro polarity
If the Camstab mixer has been loaded, only one gyro per output has been enabled and all accelerometers are OFF. This is to help setup, but is not sufficient to control the camera mount.

Assuming that there are valid P-term gain values set in the Stability control menu, moving the mount in the axis being set up will casue the mount to respond briefly. If the response is too small to determine the direction, increase the P-gain value for that gyro in the Stability control menu. Move the mount swifty in one direction on the relevant axis. For example, if testing the roll axis, roll the mount abruptly to the right. Take note of the direction the mount moves. If it moves in the same direction as your movement, the gyro will need to be reversed. If it moves in the opposite direction, then you may proceed with the next steps.

To reverse a gyro, go into the mixer setup menu for the channel to which you are connected (e.g. M2 for the Pitch/Tilt axis). Change the polarity of the relevant gyro to "Reversed". Return to the Status menu to confirm that the gyro direction is now correct.

Remove the servo connection that you have just set up and connect the next axis. Repeat steps 5 and 6 above until the gyros of all axis have been tested and set up correctly.

Step 7: Set up accelerometers
The next step is to set up the accelerometers for the pitch and roll axis. To make this easier we have to switch off the gyros.

Go into the "Stability control" menu and change the "Mode:" to OFF. Go into the "Autolevel control" menu and change the "Mode:" to ON.

Remove all servo connections and re-insert the first axis you wish to stabilise for accelerometers (Pitch or Roll).

Step 8: Test accelerometer polarity
Assuming that there are valid P-term gain values set in the Autolevel control menu, tilting the mount in the axis being set up will casue the mount to move in one direction. Take note of the direction the mount moves. If it moves in the same direction as your movement, the accelerometer will need to be reversed. If it moves in the opposite direction, then you may proceed with the next steps.

To reverse an accelerometer, go into the mixer setup menu for the channel to which you are connected (e.g. M2 for the Pitch/Tilt axis). Change the polarity of the relevant ACC to "Reversed". Return to the Status menu to confirm that the accelerometer direction is now correct.

Remove the servo connection that you have just set up and connect the next axis. Repeat step 7 above until both axis have been tested and set up correctly.

Once this is done, reconnect ALL servos to the KK2 board.

Step 9: Tuning the accelerometers
At this point, you have accelerometers set up but the gyros are off and will remain off until the accelerometers have been scaled correctly to suit your mount. With the mount and camera connected rotate the mount for the axis in question and observe how the mount is moved to compensate. It may help to remove the servo connection for the other axis while you tune this axis. More than likely the mount will move either not far enough, or too far to compensate for the movement. To adjust this, go into the "Autolevel control" menu and change the "Acc P:" setting. Increasing the value will increase the amount of movement. Adjust until moving the mount results in a movement that makes the mount stay level for that particular axis. Repeat for any other accelerometer-controlled axis you may have (Pitch or Roll only).

Step 10: Tuning the Gyros (Pitch and Roll)
Go into the "Stability control" menu and change the "Mode:" to ON. This will re-enable the gyros.

The gyros are used to counter the slow action of the dampened accelerometers. Using moderate amounts of gyro gain, you may be able to find a setting that moves quickly enough to counter fast movement and does not overshoot the target position.

It may help to remove the servo connection for the other axis while you tune this axis.

With the mount and camera connected rotate the mount for the axis in question and observe how the mount is moved to compensate. The mount may initially move too far to compensate for the movement, or jerk forward suddenly. To adjust this, go into the "Stability control" menu and change the "P Gain:" setting for the axis under test. Reducing the value will reduce the amount of overshoot.

Adjust until moving the mount results in an optimal movement for that particular axis. Repeat for any other accelerometer-controlled axis you may have (Pitch or Roll only).

Step 11: Tuning the Gyros (Yaw)
There is no equivalent Yaw accelerometer so the Yaw or Pan axis is stabilised by gyro only.

With the mount and camera connected rotate the yaw axis and observe how the mount is moved to compensate. To adjust, go into the "Stability control" menu and change the "P Gain:" setting for the yaw axis. Reducing the value will reduce the amount of overshoot.

Adjust until moving the mount results in an optimal movement for the yaw axis.

Step 12: Set presets
To point the camera at your desired position without RC inputs you have to set the roll, pitch and yaw servos to a preset position.

When you select Camstab mixer mode,

PRESET 1 is assigned to the Pitch (Tilt) output
PRESET 2 is assigned to the Yaw (Pan) output
PRESET 3 is assigned to the Roll output
A preset position of "0" should be the neutral servo position.

To alter the presets, go to the RC Setup menu and scroll down to the presets. Select the preset that relates to the ouput you wish to change and set the preset within the range -125% to 125%. You will have to return to the Status screen to see the results.

Step 13: Completion
You have now set up basic stabilisation for all axis. For advanced heading-hold settings, see the separate guide.

Izvrsno!

Probat ću, prvo ću spojit gimbal na Nazine outpute (tu ne očekujem neko cvijeće, ali vidim da nekima radi OK, ne baš najbolje ali ajmo reći OK za prvu ruku), a kasnije ću flešat KK 2. Ak netko u ZG ima programator, nek se javi pa da to isflešamo za pivu.
Da li postoji shema da spojim BEC na 7.2V ili bar 6V a da ne skurim board?

Izvrsno!

Probat ću, prvo ću spojit gimbal na Nazine outpute (tu ne očekujem neko cvijeće, ali vidim da nekima radi OK, ne baš najbolje ali ajmo reći OK za prvu ruku), a kasnije ću flešat KK 2. Ak netko u ZG ima programator, nek se javi pa da to isflešamo za pivu.
Da li postoji shema da spojim BEC na 7.2V ili bar 6V a da ne skurim board?

ako se dobro sjecam tomislav_zg mislim da ima programator